Enhancing Your Defensive Handgun Without Sacrificing Reliability
For our last article in the series on defensive handguns, I would like to cover a few minor modifications and enhancements that would help us use our handguns more effectively. Almost everyone likes the “new and improved” version of something, even concealed carry shooters. Since we are no different, I figured I would give you some of the improvements I have discovered that truly improve your defensive handgun without sacrificing the reliability.
When we started this journey for a perfect defensive gun, we learned that the handgun we picked had to be 100% reliable first…everything else was second. For some reason, after we start getting comfortable with our handgun we decide that loosing “a little reliability” is okay. Well, my friends it’s not okay. This is the kind of thought process that gets us killed because of poor equipment selection, or modification.
In the ever After…
We also have to think about the “after”. By this, I mean the “after” a potential deadly force incident. Since that is the reason why we are carrying our defensive handgun in the first place. The “after” will entail our defensive handgun being seized as evidence in the case. The “after” would potentially mean someone like the police, testing, examining and going through your defensive handgun. They would note any changes, safeties that didn’t work, modifications, etc. Obviously, you also want to protect yourself legally and civilly in the “after”.
Many people foolishly believe that they can work on their handguns and nobody will ever know. Trust me, after five years of gunsmithing at a local gun shop, serving as an armorer for over 20 years and handling a gun every day for the past 35 years, I know the difference. Don’t you think someone that examines multiple firearms, daily, for over 5 years, will know if it’s been modified? Of course, they will. Protect yourself not only before the incident, but in the “after”.
With all of that being said, I generally try to avoid installing aftermarket internal parts. I would prefer that the parts installed inside of any defensive handgun be from the original equipment manufacturer (OEM). These OEM parts are normally better tested and manufactured. Plus, it would certainly sound better to a grand jury later (in the “after”), knowing that all of the internal parts were factory (OEM) made. You can see where this is going.
So how can we improve our handguns to increase our speed and accuracy, while not losing our reliability or leaving us open to any legal liability? Simple.
Defensive Sights: Visibility and Durability
Oh, say can you see…
Let’s start with our sights. If you can’t see the target or the sights, then you can’t hit your mark. For those of us over 40 years of age, you may notice that you are having a hard time seeing “up close”, or through the “small” notch in the rear sight. You may also notice that you can’t focus fast enough, through the small notch in the rear sight, under speed drills consistent with gun fight conditions. If this is you, then I would suggest going to a wider notch rear sight.
Many companies offer excellent wide notch rear sights for the common defensive handguns on our list. The companies I have used with the most success are as follows: 10-8 Performance, Heine, Dawson Precision, Ameriglo, Trijicon, to name a few. Others are out there, but I have personally used and installed numerous versions of these and feel comfortable recommending them to you. Usually a rear sight notch .140”, in width, is enough to enhance your 40+ sight picture.
Along the lines of being able to see the sights, we must realize that most deadly force incidents take place at night, or in low light conditions. With that being said, plain black sights do not show up well in low or no light. Personally, I want all of my defensive handguns to have sights that glow in the dark (aka, “night sights”, or tritium sights). These sights help me to get better alignment at night or in low light conditions.
Finally, when it comes to sights, I want to make sure that they are durable against very harsh treatment. I do not want my sight picture to change because of a broken fiber optic rod, or become knocked off center because its loose on the slide. I like all of my sights to be solid, made with a steel housing, that can be positively affixed to the slide. Avoid any staked, plastic sights, or fiber optic rods on defensive handgun. They are not durable enough for heavy use.
Many competition shooters will start getting up in arms because their favorite colored fiber optic sight is not getting the nod for defensive use. I understand because they look really good under daylight, or gun store conditions. The problem is that the fiber optic rods break too often to be depended upon for a defensive gun and they don’t glow in the dark. We must think about 100% reliability with our handguns and any equipment that goes on, or into them.
As far as what sights I actually use, I normally use Ameriglo Bold sights or the factory Glock, Sig Sauer and Beretta night sights. On 1911’s for carry, I prefer 10-8 Performance, Heine or Novak brand night sights. As for the revolvers that don’t have just fixed sights, I use the standard white outline rear, with the red ramp front sights.
Proper Grip Index and Handgun Grips
Get a grip…
After sights, I want you to start thinking about the proper grip index. You can’t shoot the handgun accurately, under speed, without having a proper grip index. Ideally, you should be able to hold the pistol in line with the radius of your arm and still reach the trigger. This can be affected most by the grip, or stocks and the distance the trigger face is, in relation to the back strap of the grip.
If you have “average” sized hands, avoid large or small handgun grips that throw off your proper grip index. For 1911’s, I prefer the standard size panels for average sized hands. Some women and a few men, with small hands, will actually prefer “thin” grips and a “short” faced trigger to allow for the proper index.
Some men with large hands will actually need more distance from the back strap to the trigger face. For them, I recommend the Pachmayr Presentation grip with wrap around front strap and a “long” trigger. The wrap around rubber front strap gives these large-handed shooters better control and grip index, while properly locating their trigger finger on the face of the trigger.
Along these same lines, the Sig Sauer double stacked series of pistols like the models P226-P229, can be hard for the average sized person to get proper grip index and still reach the trigger face. A simple fix to this problem is to install a “short trigger”. These “short triggers” are offered by Sig Sauer, as OEM parts. They can easily be installed by a Sig Armorer, or a qualified gunsmith. Since the grip is smaller on the models: P220, P230, P232 and P225, short triggers are not generally needed for these models.
As far as aftermarket grips from Hogue, Pachmayr, Farrar and many others, for the Sig Sauer P series and the Beretta 92/96 series of pistols, I avoid them for several reasons. The first being is most of these aftermarket grips are too thick for the average man. The second is that most of the aftermarket grips are too smooth, allowing the pistol to move in your hand during recoil. Finally, many are not properly inletted inside to allow proper function of controls like the decocking levers and slide stops. In the end I find that the average person prefers the standard issue, black in color, checkered plastic grips. Remember, we still need 100% reliability even when we are talking about our grips.
The Glock grip. Some say that they are “blocky”, “shaped like a 10×4”, or just plain “ugly”. That may be, but the pistols are 100% reliable. So if this is our defensive pistol choice, let’s look at a few ways to improve it. Glock’s newest models in the Generation 4, 5 and 6 have an interchangeable back strap system, just like the S&W M&P series, H&K VP9, et al; that comes with the guns. This helps a wider range of shooter to adapt the pistol to themselves for a proper grip index. Experiment with both models and grip options to find what works for you.
For those that have a Glock Generation 3, or earlier model, many gunsmiths and companies offer a grip reduction service as a last resort. In many cases, removing some material from underneath the trigger guard and on the back strap will fix most grip index problems, for persons with smaller hands. Remember you can’t put it back once you take it off. Make sure you need your grips reduced, before you have them cut.
As for grips on the double action (DA) revolvers from Colt or Smith and Wesson, I prefer to remove the original wood grips that the older models came with. The original wood grips look nice, but do not give you a good grip index, either being too large or too small depending on the model. The original grips are smooth, in areas that they should be checkered, allowing the revolver to move in your hand under recoil. The original wood grips provide no cushion from recoil either, which makes shooting defensive loads no joy.
On the Colt or Smith and Wesson DA revolvers (Python, Trooper, 10, 13, 15, 19, 66, 586, 686, et al), I prefer the Pachmayr Presentation grip, without finger grooves, in the “small” size. Currently, these are only offered in “large”, which is a shame since the average sized hand user prefers the smaller grip. These “small” sized Pachmayr Presentation grips can still be found for sale on auction sites such as Ebay or Gunbroker. Men with large hands will obviously appreciate the larger grip of “large” sized, Pachmayr presentation grip.
Finger grooves? Many times, I’m asked by revolver shooters about my opinion on grips with finger grooves. Let me be the first to say that they look great. However, looks are not what we’re worried about on our defensive handgun. What we are looking for is 100% reliable function. I normally find that the finger grooves don’t fit most shooters. Most importantly, I also find that it’s harder to shoot the revolver if you get a bad draw from the holster. The Pachmayr Presentation grips, without finger grooves, are more forgiving in this area of poor draws.
As far as the small, back-up size, DA revolvers, I prefer the Pachmayr Compac grip. These rubber replacement grips give you better grip index and recoil control, than the factory grips, that come on most hideout size revolvers. Another favorite for these small handguns and the average shooter, is the Uncle Mike’s “Boot grip”. The Boot grip gives the shooter excellent control, better grip index, in a smaller, more concealable package. Grip adapters from Pachmayr, Tyler’s T grip and others, take up the empty space behind the trigger guard, assisting with better control of the firearm in double action shooting. With “Boot” grips and grip adapters, you don’t get much help with felt recoil since the back straps of the revolvers are left exposed.
Trigger Enhancements and Safe Pull Weights
Triggered…
This brings us to the trigger and trigger pull weights. Everyone wants a better trigger pull since this what usually keeps us from hitting our mark, right? Yes and no.
A very heavy trigger pull is harder to shoot well, under speed, than a lighter trigger pull. But, what’s heavy? An Olympic, small bore or airgun, competitor thinks anything above 4 ounces is heavy. Many benchrest shooters like triggers in the 2 ounce-2 lbs range. While some hunters I know prefer triggers in the 2.5-3.5 lbs range. Most law enforcement and military agencies require trigger pulls in the 4.0-5.0 lbs range, for their issued handguns.
I like most defensive handgun trigger pulls in the 4.0-4.5 lbs range. This gives me a good balance of reliability, accuracy and control. The defensive handgun trigger must break as cleanly as possible, while not being to “easy” to accidently fire if we become startled. Further, we also have to think about the Adrenaline dump our bodies will receive during a deadly force threat, as well as the outside temperature under all conditions. We may not have the dexterity to “feel” a trigger pull below 3.5 lbs, when we are highly stressed, hands are cold, or if we’re wearing gloves.
Trigger pulls that are too light, also may not hold under heavy use. Many 1911’s have trigger pulls adjusted to light for defensive purposes. I have seen numerous 1911’s come through the shop where the hammer “followed” the slide forward. This indicates that the sear cannot hold the hammer in position. This is dangerous and courting disaster. Simply increasing the sear weight to a more reasonable 4.0-4.5 lbs range, usually fixes this issue unless the sear or hammer hooks have become damaged.
The Beretta 92F/96F series of pistols is easily smoothed out and lightened slightly by easy spring replacement. When attending Beretta’s armorer’s school many years ago, I had the opportunity to work on many different models of the Beretta 92 and 96. I discovered that the 92D model hammer spring is lighter, in the double action mode, than the 92F and M9 pistols. In comparing both hammer springs, I learned that the 92D hammer spring is approximately two coils shorter than the 92F or M9 pistols. Switching from a 92F/96F hammer spring, to the 92D/96D hammer spring, is as easy as ordering a factory OEM replacement.
Double Action revolvers from Colt or Smith and Wesson are usually smooth, but heavy. A few pounds of double action pull weight can be taken off with a decent trigger job. Since few gunsmiths really understand these revolvers, I recommend that you ask a lot of questions to determine their skill level. You want the trigger to be smooth and light, without giving up any reliability. I find that a 10 lbs double action is reliable and still easy to manage. I don’t reduce the mainspring tension to get this weight either. Test the single action mode by cocking the hammer to full cock, then push forward with your thumb. The hammer should not “push off” with normal thumb pressure.
As far as Glock generations 1, 2, 3 or 6, the easiest fix to get a better trigger pull is to purchase a factory “minus” connector. This will take your trigger pull down to 4.4-4.5 pounds. Make sure to get a factory part, since many aftermarket connectors have a tendency to starting “doubling” after 1,500-2,000 rounds. Ask me how I know. Again, your mileage may vary.
For Glock generations 4 & 5, I prefer the Glock Performance Trigger kit. These kits are offered for the 9mm, 40 S&W and 22LR caliber models. These are great and all factory parts. Best thing is that they drop right in without any modification to your pistol.
Another fix for a better trigger pull in a 2nd, 3rd and 4th Generations of Glock pistols, that are not full-sized guns, is to replace the serrated faced trigger with one that is smooth. For some reason Glock installed serrated faced triggers in the models: 26, 27, 19, 23, et al, in all of these models before the Generation 5. If you’re already shooting more than a few hundred rounds in a practice session, you’ll know why I recommend switching this part out.
Avoid installing aftermarket trigger kits, reduced striker springs, etc. These will generally all become a reliability and legality nightmare. Don’t shoot the messenger as your mileage may vary.
Mag Wells, Slide Releases, and Magazine Releases
Otherwise…
There are a few more additions that I have come to recommend under certain circumstances. Magpul has a low-profile magazine well for the 3rd and 4th Generation Glock, models 19 and 17. This mag well doesn’t add any substantial length or weight to the pistol grip, yet provides a faster reload for most people. This is an excellent recommendation for those that want a slight edge on their reloading times. I would avoid the large, bulky, competition style funnels on any defensive gun.
Extended slide releases? Generally, I avoid these things on the majority of pistols. However, I have found where installing a factory extended slide release on a Glock is a good thing for some people. Some women or those with diminishing hand and upper body strength, can benefit from these extended releases since it allows them a bigger surface to push up against while trying to get the slide locked back during clearance drills. Also, those in the military or law enforcement that may have to manipulate a ballistic shield, can reload faster with one hand, by using one of these. Otherwise, I would try to avoid adding extended slide releases on your defensive gun.
Extended magazine releases? Please, please, please, don’t install one of these “enhancements” on your pistol. In many cases they cause more harm than good. Some of the competition magazine releases are so large that they are easily activated at the most inopportune times. When drawing the pistol, or hands coming together to shoot under speed or simply while in the pistol is seated in the holster if leaned upon, I’ve found that oversized mag releases can disengage. Again, what is 100% reliable for you under all conditions?
Jim’s Recommended Modifications by Brand and Model
Here’s Jim’s short list of recommended modifications by brand and model:
Glock models: 26/27, 19/23, 17/22, 20/21, et al, night sights, factory Glock “minus” (4.4 lbs) connector, factory smooth faced trigger on 26/27 and 19/23 models
(Possible other modifications: extended slide stop/release, Magpul mag well, Glock Performance Triggers depending upon model)
Sig Sauer models: P226/P227/P228/P229, night sights, short trigger
Beretta models: 92F/96F, night sights, 92D hammer spring
1911, night sights, proper grips for better grip index, 4.0-4.5 lbs trigger job, hammer doesn’t “follow” the slide
S&W DA revolvers, Pachmayr presentation or Compac rubber grips, service trigger job not below 10 lbs DA, so hammer will not “push off” in single action mode
Colt DA revolvers, Pachmayr presentation or Compac rubber grips, service trigger job not below 10 lbs DA, so hammer will not “push off” in single action mode
S&W M&P 2.0, night sights
H&K VP9, night sights
Final Thoughts: Less Is More
In the end…
Most handguns so modified or improved as indicated above, will work perfectly without any further issue. We’ve probably invested less than $100.00, for most of these modifications and the best thing is we didn’t sacrifice any reliability to gain this “edge” in performance. We can also show that these pistols have had minor enhancements, that improved performance, without making them a legal liability in the “after”. When it comes to modifying your defensive pistol think, less = more.
Until next month…Si vis pacem, para bellum.
